How to Add Diamonds to the Bezel of a Watch

by Chiara Sakuwa

The bezel setting is the oldest type of setting for diamonds and other gemstones.

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Diamonds add style and value to jewelry. Setting diamonds into the bezel of a watch takes a considerable degree of time, skill and patience. This is usually done by a professional jeweler; but anyone can craft bezel settings, given the proper equipment. Bezel setting involves specialized metal-shaping tools to craft the bezel, by drilling a hole into the watch, shaping it to each diamond's measurements and placing each diamond securely into the setting. The outer rim or "lip" of metal around the diamond is then folded around the edge to secure it. Unlike pronged settings, bezel settings protect the edges of the stone and prevent snagging, scratching and chipping.

Items you will need

  • Diamonds
  • Excavating tool
  • Gold or platinum
  • Pneumatic hammer
  • Watch
Step 1

Select the type, size and shape of diamond to fit the dimensions of your watch. Decide on the shape and type of bezel setting, such as a full bezel setting that completely surrounds the diamonds, a partial bezel enclosing half of the diamond or a pear or oval- shaped bezel. Then measure each diamond's outer edge (girdle) and bottom (pavilion) to determine the dimensions of the bezel setting.

Step 2

Craft each bezel setting, using a specialized metal excavating tool to drill and shape setting into area of the watch in accordance with each diamond's dimensions. Be sure each diamond can fit snugly into each bezel setting prior to mounting.

Step 3

Place each diamond into its bezel setting on the watch. Then secure each stone to its bezel setting by folding the outer rim or "lip" of metal around its diameter using a specialized pneumatic hammer. Each diamond should appear enclosed inside the bezel setting.

Tips

  • Full bezel settings offer the best protection for each diamond, due to its fully enclosed design. However, partial bezel settings display more of each diamond's brilliance, as light can refract through the top and the exposed sides.

    Bezel settings can conceal pre-existing damage, including scratches, chips and flaws in diamonds. This method of setting can improvise the use of certain diamonds and thus, save money and inventory, increasing profitability.

Warnings

  • Inspect the bezel settings in your watch regularly to ensure that the diamonds are secure. If you see loose or ill-fitting stones, notify a professional jeweler immediately to prevent loss or damage.

    Insure your watch and the diamonds used prior to bezel setting. This will ensure compensation in cases of theft, misplacement or personal complications.

Photo Credits

  • Hemera Technologies/AbleStock.com/Getty Images

About the Author

Chiara Sakuwa has been a writer since 2005. Her work has appeared in publications such as the "Liberty Champion" newspaper and "The New World Encyclopedia" project. She is also the author of the novel "The Lady Leathernecks." She holds a Bachelor of Social Sciences from Campbell University and a Master of Criminal Justice from Boston University.