Boxer briefs are a men's undergarment that are a hybrid between loose boxer shorts and tight briefs. They are longer in the leg, like shorts, yet tight-fitting in the crotch area, similar to briefs.They are usually made out of a soft, flannel-like material, or a knit fabric composed of cotton or spandex to provide maximum comfort. Boxer briefs can have a keyhole fly, pouch, button (snap) front or no fly. The waistband is usually elastic and is often in a color that contrasts with the material. Brand names are often printed on the elastic. Boxer briefs are fairly easy to construct.
Items you will need
- Old pair of boxer briefs
- Pattern paper
- Fabric scissors
- L ruler
- Curved ruler
- Paper scissors
- Fabric (will be different yardage depending upon specific measurements)
- Roll of elastic, 1 inch width
- Sewing machine with zig-zag stitch
Measure elastic around waist. Elastic should be slightly tight around waist to prevent sliding. Make sure the ends of the elastic overlap 1 inch.
Cut waistband and one leg off of the pair of old boxer briefs.
Make a notch on the front edge of the leg to indicate that it is the front side.
Cut out the other leg, the side panel that wraps around from the front to the back, and the front panel. There should be three pieces total.
Iron out pattern paper.
Lay each piece of fabric on the pattern paper. Take the pencil and trace around each piece onto the pattern paper. Label each to differentiate: center front panel, center back panel, and the side panel. For the side panel, put an "F" on the right of it to indicate the front, and a "B" on the left side to indicate the back.
Take a clear ruler and mark the grain line on the edge of the top of each piece, which is a marking in the middle. It will vary depending on the size of the boxer briefs. For a size small, the grain line should be around 3 and 5/8 inches.
Take the ruler and make a vertical line down the center from the grain line to make the center grain line.
Take the L ruler and correct the lines that may not be straight. Use a curved ruler for curved edges. Repeat process for each pattern piece.
Cut out each piece. Do not make seam allowances.
Mark a quarter inch around all sides except the top, which is where the elastic will be.
Make sure the front panel lines up the front end of the back piece, and make sure the back of the side panel lines up with the back end of the back piece.
Take a half inch off the straight side of the front and back sides of the back piece (not the top,) in order to line up with the front and back pieces perfectly.
Make one or two notches in the middle of each side of the pattern pieces to indicate the front and the back.
Take out fabric. Place three pattern pieces on the fabric, leaving a couple inches separating each piece. Pin each pattern piece to the fabric.
Cut out each piece of fabric following the edges of the pattern pieces. Remove the pattern paper pieces so you are left just with fabric pieces.
Sew the edges of the front and side pieces together at 1/8 of an inch.
Put the right sides of the completed front piece on top of the right side of back piece. Pin the bottom side (not the top,) where they will be attached. Sew the side of the front pieces to the side of the back piece.
Fold over the top of the back piece 1 inch, and sew along that side with a zig-zag stitch. This is where the elastic will be.
Overlap elastic waistband 1 inch. Sew together using a zig-zag stitch.
Pin elastic around the outside of the top of the back piece of the underwear. Turn over the back piece (inside out,) and sew the elastic band to the back piece, sewing on the fabric side, not the elastic side. Sew all the way around as close to the edge as possible.